Stories, Questions, and Mysteries

Stories, Questions, and Mysteries

Sunday 16 February 2014

Isan Surviver.

    A week ago I met Neville with his large camera in a perfect vantage point for the flower procession in Chaing Mai. He spoke enthusiastically and with heart about a scheme he had participated in in Isan. I looked online, corrosponded with Jack Panassri the coordinator and am now installed for two weeks.  
    This NGO teaches English to people in the village at various levels. It seems that on Monday I will be working with a new Women's development group. Ironically, The Prime Minister has set aside funds to help women and heir status in communities. Would that she were equally forthcoming in other social, economic and moral areas. None the less..... But then again is a man the right person to be teaching women english and how to develop their position in society.
     Last night I caught a bus from Chaing Mai bus station to Nonkhai here in Isan were Jack met me and drove me to the compound of his, his parents' house and neighbours in Thindung. One neighbour today installed a Spirit House and a monk turned up to conduct the rituals. Just another example of the fusion of animism and Buddhism in these parts of the world.
     The bus was called a VIP service, pity help the rest. The seats seem to have been designed to insure insomnia and the toilet was like a recycled refrigerator with special odour effects.
But the day dawned, Jack met me drove me from Nongkri and showed me to my room. It is simple and excellent. Tiled floor, neat 3/4 bed, wardrobe, clothes rack, chair and desk and wi fi. Oh and an essential mosquito net. So far I have had two rests to supply for a destroyed night.
    Jack is married to a lovely Dutch woman, Patricia and they have a 10 month little girl, Luna who is greeted by and greets everyone as we walked around the village this afternoon. We crossed the main road and meandered through the village where several houses have little industries, making rice noodles, making rice crackers, the ones we heat in oil to expand them. They grow all manner of vegetables, run sewing and laundry services and cultivating the bank of the Mekong with exquisite care. terracing and a vast variety of vegies, fruit and now potatoes.
     Just across the river, plied by long boats is Laos. Trade goes on in small ways so as not to offend the exise people. One chap we saw was bringing back rice wine in small quantities.
The Thindung village Hall where meetings taake place above the Mekong.
                                            River bank cultivated and sculpted
Our back garden with rice fields and shrub.
The sun was setting across the river as we talked to villagers and children playing shuttle cock and wandered around the temples. Even the mention of the name Mekong moves me still since Vietnam war days. But then I never thought I would be out for an afternoon/evening stroll along its fecund and austere banks.

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